Noche (o Tarde) de Rábanos
That’s Night of the Radishes to you. Or, as it happened, Afternoon of the Radishes, for us.
Noche de Rábanos is easier to explain than describe. Maybe.
Going back to Colonial times, Oaxaca has had a Christmas market on December 23rd. Back in the day, radish farmers would come to market and carve radishes into wondrous shapes as a form of promotion, to attract attention to their stalls. And, one can only suppose, out of boredom. I mean, no disrespect, but… radish farmers. Anything to liven the day.
Now, I can hear you asking yourselves, how many options are there for carving a wee radish into a wondrous shape? Great question, and thanks for paying attention. These radishes are not the forlorn, stunted inhabitants of our decadent Western grocery stores. No, sir. These robust beasties are yam-like in their massive, gnarled beauty. These radishes are born to be carved.
The city of Oaxaca recognized a marketing opportunity when it saw one, and instituted a formal radish carving competition, Noche de Rábanos, in, wait for it… 1897. That’s right, this year is the 125th Night of the Radishes. Brings chills down your spine, don’t it?
So how did Noche de Rábanos become Tarde de Rábanos for us? Well, the official judging takes place in the evening, but most of the carving is done by about 3:00, and is on display. The carving has to be done very close to the judging, because the radishes wilt. The artists spend the next few hours spraying their creations down with water to keep them fresh.
So, to beat the crowds, we hit the Zócalo early. And this is what the line looked like at 3:00.
No way are we getting in that line. So we skirted the edge and took pictures whenever there was a gap in the queue.
And that’s the explanation. But there’s just no way words can do justice to its epic weirdness. There’s a reason Oaxaca is a UNESCO World Heritage Centre. So, once again, the pictures are going to do the heavy lifting here.
But Noche de Rábanos is about so much more than rábanos. Over the years it’s branched out, and now offers competitions in Totomoxtle (dried corn husks) in two divisions, Natural and Decorado, as well as a separate competition in Flor Inmortal (dried flowers). Not as supremely freaky as the rábanos, but plenty odd enough, thank you.
Rabanos heaven! That is so weird and wonderful. I especially liked the Jesus radish on a wheel of radishes. It sings ! I’m living an adventurous life through you guys so keep it coming.
I’m trying to think if I’ve ever seen any sort of cultural event or representation weirder than Noche de Rábanos, and I honestly can’t come up with anything. I’m delighted to provide second hand access to the Ripley’s Believe It Or Not tour that our lives have become.
Takes me back! I forgot just how ornate radishes can be.
If it ever slips your mind again, you know where to come for a refresher.
You’ve never been to the Corn Palace in Mitchell, Nebraska? The make huge murals of ears of colored corn all over this building… And inside? It’s a basket ball stadium… Radishes are normal. Cornhusk dolls, classic.
Actually, I have been to the Corn Palace, but it was 53 years ago, when I was a pup, and I’d forgotten. Thanks for bringing that back.