Chasing The Hammam
I am on record as a hammam slut. There is something so gloriously decadent about holding still and being bathed by someone else. It’s good to be pasha. Hammams are a distinctly Muslim invention, deeply…
A Horse Walks Into A Bar…
On the evening of Day Two post-apocalyptic fall, I abandoned Dorothy and headed out on a solo visit to Siem Reap’s famous night markets. The night market area is also the locus for what’s known…
Limping To Cambodia
I am very, very good at figuring out how to get things done. I may not be the person you want setting the course, but if you tell me what you want done I’ll figure…
DTour To AgriCulture
Chicago’s most obvious benefits are Chicago-centric: museums, galleries, restaurants, neighborhoods… The less obvious benefits are regional. Chicago is hard by a ton of really interesting places and beautiful sights. The Indiana Dunes are an hour…
The Old City, And How It Got Its Name
The Old City is home to many of Istanbul’s greatest hits: Topkapi Palace, the Hagia Sophia, The Blue Mosque, and the Grand Bazaar. The problem is that every one of these locations is on the…
Kapadokya: Land Of Fairies
Or, as it’s Anglicized and better known, Cappadocia. Ground Zero for Instagrammable hot air balloons. If you know us you’ll be unsurprised that we didn’t go aloft. What may surprise you, and certainly surprised us,…
… Not Constantinople
We keep going on about how the places we’ve been visiting are so old. “Ooh, Guanajuato dates to the 1500s!” “Holy shit, Marrakech was founded in 1070.” “Wait a minute, the Phoenicians lost Carthage in…
Tunisia Road Trip, Partie Trois: To The Desert & Beyond! Days Four, Five, & Six
Day Four started with an early morning camel ride before we left Ksar Ghilane for a different chunk of the Sahara. Camels: better than coffee to get the blood moving. This is the camel lot.…
Tunisia Road Trip, Partie Trois: To The Desert & Beyond! Days Two & Three…
We’ll be staying in the general area around Tataouine for Day Two, so not as harsh as getting down to this part of Tunisia from Sousse yesterday. Chenini Chenini is technically another hilltop Ksar, like…
Tunisia Road Trip, Partie Trois: To The Desert & Beyond! Day One…
Our new best friend, Mohamed from Nabeul, picked us up at 7:00 AM to start our trip to the Sahara. As a retired professional tour guide, Mohamed was an incredibly knowledgeable resource to have at…